Crater Highlands: Olmoti and Empakai Craters
Lake Natron Trek via Empakai Crater and Acacia Camp

Many people visit the Ngorongoro Crater for one day. The Crater Highlands are well worth more time. Behind Ngorongoro Crater, up its north rim track, is the smaller Olmoti Crater with a Maasai village nearby called Nainokanoka. Here there is a special or private campsite in a wooded area, which is not the most scenic and close to the ranger post, but a good option nevertheless when private campsites on Ngorongoro Crater rim are difficult to obtain, and a good base for undertaking the moderately easy two hour and a half hike to Olmoti Crater rim and back to see the Munge River plunge over the rim's precipitous cliffs on its way to Lake Magadi inside the Ngorongoro Crater.

It is possible to trek in the Crater Highlands all year round, outside of the heavy rains of April and May, but because of heat, dust and winter mists June through August which obscure views, the best months are December through March. For instance, June through August there is usually chilly morning mists obscuring Olmoti's and Empakai's summits.

Empakai Crater is a 32 km drive from Olmoti. Track conditions are affected by rain. If you get out there early enough you can descend into the crater to its lake where you might see the flamingoes which move between all the lakes of the Great Rift Valley. It is a steep hike in and out of Empakai. After rain, the trail can be dangerously slippery. As on the Olmoti hike, you must be accompanied by an armed ranger from the Nainokanoka post because it is possible to encounter Cape buffalo. From Empakai's rim, when it is clear, it is possible to get a good view of Mount Lengai, Tanzania 's last active volcano which dominates Lake Natron 's skyline.

The trek to Natron has many options. You can begin at Ngorongoro Crater and make it a five to six-day hike; or at Olmoti (Nainokanoka) to make it a four-day hike; or you can begin at Empakai Crater which results in a two-day hike. All camping gear, food and water are loaded on Maasai donkeys which are organized through the local Maasai, usually the Maasai from Nainokanoka. It is a good idea to leave your larger bag in your safari vehicle and pack lighter for the hike. Do not put any valuables or breakables in the pack which you intend having the donkeys carry. You will be accompanied by your operator's guide, who may very well double as your cook, as well as the armed ranger.

If you begin your trek at Olmoti, it's a full day's walk to the Maasai village of Bulati, a rather barren and windswept place, where you make camp for the night. December through March you pass Maasai cattle grazing alongside zebra and gazelle. Maasai kraals are spread over the hillsides. From Nainokanoka to Bulati is a distance of 18 kms over undulating terrain. The next morning you gradually ascend to Empakai Crater's rim, making this the most strenuous day of the hike along with the last day when you descend the escarpment. There are three campsites on Empakai. The middle camp is close to the trail down into the crater; the last camp is close to where you ascend from the crater. The second and third sites are therefore more conveniently located. From the middle Empakai campsite to Acacia Camp is a distance of 20 kms.

The final two days of the Natron hike provide superb rift valley scenery. From Empakai you follow the undulating crater rim for several hours, with a panorama to the east of another old volcano, Mt Kerimas. As the day progresses, mighty Mt Lengai comes into view and fills the horizon. Bustling little Naiyobi village is where your armed ranger from the Ngorongoro Conservation Area will leave you to return to his post. In fact, he may ask to leave you at Empakai, but he is supposed to go the distance to Naiyobi and find the transport back to Nainokanoka which the NCA doesn't provide him. Naiyobi is the last chance for vehicle support if any trekkers are of the mind to turn back, although even this isn't without complications. An hour and a half's walk beyond Naiyobi village is Acacia Camp set in a peaceful yellow acacia tree forest. You may find young Maasai warriors in the forest with their herds, or hear them singing and calling to their animals. The last day of the hike is spent descending the rift. It becomes very steep in places, especially the last forty minutes. If you have bad knees use walking sticks. It also becomes very hot as you continue to descend. From Acacia Camp to the bottom of the rift where your vehicles await you is a distance of 15 kms. It is another long, hot ten kms to Lake Natron 's campsites and accommodations if you wish to defer the ride and walk.