Kilombero River Canoe Safari

Southern Tanzania 's Kilombero Valley is Tanzania 's largest wetlands on the fringes of the Selous Game Reserve. Although Kilombero fishermen have offered canoe safari on the Kilombero River for three years, a project which got off the ground with the help and encouragement of foreign scientists long familiar with the region's biodiversity, Kilombero remains an infrequent destination for Tanzania 's visitors. For those who might be interested after reading this, it needs to be understood that the observation of wetland birds and fishing villages, and the enjoyment of superb sunsets and quiet nights spent camping along the river banks are the canoe safari's richest rewards. Rain can make for difficult road conditions for the 105 km stretch between Mikumi town and Ifakara town where you board the canoes, so dry season travel—June to October—is best. Unfortunately, the best chances of seeing elephant along the river are between November and February. During the dry season June to October, ellies tend to be back in the Selous.

The "canoes" are the same dug-outs that local fishermen use and are paddled by two men. Beginning in Ifakara, your first destination is a village on the border of the Selous Game Reserve, a distance of 30 kms, which you can visit the following day from your campsite (I have a firsthand account of elephants running through this village!) and where you can try your hand at fishing the traditional way, with a baited line. Between Ifakara and this village you are floating down the river with the current, which arguably makes it the most enjoyable day of the entire trip. Without motorized crafts plying the river, it is very peaceful. There are only the sounds of birds, water against the high sides of the canoe, and the gentle greetings the fishermen give each other as they pass. The return to Ifakara takes twice as long because the boatmen must row against the current. Limiting two to a canoe to lighten the load isn't a bad idea.

A separate canoe carries your camping gear, food and drinking water, able camping assistants and cook. The meals are excellent, including fried fish that is pulled fresh from the river that day, and pan bread made over the fire. The supply canoe leaves ahead of you from Ifakara so that your camp is set and waiting when you arrive at sunset.

Passengers sit on foam mattresses lining the canoe bottom. Being impervious to the pain of long hours sitting immobile under a hot sun is useful for this safari. The canoes do have sunshades (made perhaps from cement bags!), but that strong African sun is penetrating. Bird sightings should help take your mind away from any discomfort. I noted fish eagles, egrets, pelicans, spoonbills, bee-eaters, kingfishers, cormorants, skimmers and plovers. This was my first time to see African skimmers in Tanzania . Where we camped there were skimmer couples sitting on their speckled eggs laid in shallow depressions in the sand.

The minimum amount of time needed is three days and two nights.