Lodging Choices

The choice is between lodges and permanent tented camps; camping, both budget and private (known in Tanzania as "special"); and luxury mobile/seasonal camping.

I believe that the best safari includes a mix of lodging styles. Some of the lodges and tented camps offer remarkable locations and proximity to wildlife. I also encourage at least a few nights camping - if not many nights camping for the adventurous. There is no better experience than sitting around the camp fire after a great day of game viewing and an excellent dinner. As for animal noises, and the occasional visitor, well, that is all part of the exercise.

There are established public camp sites in every national park. Although they may have some basic facilities like latrine and running water, any number of campers will be camping with you.

I prefer "special" camp sites, which, although more expensive, are secluded private locations. No one else can use it for the duration of our booked stay. The cook and his crew arrive ahead of us and put up tents, shower and chemical toilet. The crew also dismantles camp when we move on. It is not super luxurious camping, but it is very comfortable. If there are any special occasions to celebrate, then we inform the crew ahead of time and they will indulge us. At my request, my camp cook baked a birthday cake in the coals of a camp fire. He then iced his creation. It was a big hit.

Luxury camping: There are several international companies which offer luxury seasonal camps the locations of which change to best follow wildlife migration patterns in the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Tents are walk-in large and limited in number and guests' every comfort is catered to. Asilia for instance (www.asilialodges.com), opens Olakira Camp in the Ndutu area December through March typically, whereupon it moves to a Central Serengeti location June through July. Asilia’s Sayari Camp is set up on the Mara River in the Northern Serengeti June through November.

Luxury camping is taking over the camping scene in the north. The special camps which I enjoyed when I lived in Tanzania not so many years ago are booked for entire seasons. Booking special sites has become increasingly difficult unless you want to book the entire safari through the operator which has paid for the site. It has happened too that I have arrived to find a larger operator in the site which I had thought I had successfully booked. It is good to have luxury camping as another accommodation alternative, especially since there is a shortage of rooms in the Serengeti, however, in a luxury camp you are still camping with other guests. Only special camping affords absolute privacy to you and your group.

Where to stay has much to do with when you go, especially in the case of the northern circuit. You will want to camp in the Serengeti where the wildlife happens to be at the time of your visit. For certain itineraries - to Lake Natron for example - you may have to stay at public camps, although these tend to be less busy outside of the national parks. If you decide on the southern circuit you may have to stay at simple but friendly guesthouses along the way. These guesthouses are a wonderful way too to experience the country.

I've listed accommodations that have web sites under Accommodations on the links page.