When To Go

You can visit Tanzania all year round, but it is best to keep in mind the two rainy seasons. The "long rains" usually fall March through May. The "short rains" can begin sometime in November and last into January. This makes the dry season June through October and one of the peak tourist seasons. The month of August is particularly busy. Tourist numbers in the north also peak December through March, especially between Christmas and New Year's. This is because during and shortly after the "short rains" is an excellent time for the southern Serengeti along its border with the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA). It is when the annual migration of wildebeest and zebra passes through. (Since the migration is weather dependant, there are no guarantees of the migration's timing. Read the Serengeti section below for more on the migration cycle.)

The rainy seasons occur around the same time in both the north and the south, but with some variation. The wet may linger longer in some parts of the country, arrive later or be lighter or heavier than usual. A good rule of thumb is to avoid travel during the "long rains." There is the risk of getting bogged down in patches of Tanzania's heavy dark volcanic soil called "black cotton" which turns to molasses when it's wet. As I have already pointed out, the "short rains" is a good time for the southern Serengeti. However, even then, destinations like the NCA's Nasera Rock, OlKarien Gorge, Lake Natron, and even Ndutu, might call for a flexible and adventurous spirit due to poor track conditions - which isn't a bad thing. You don't want your safari to be without adventure.

During the wet months, not only are many tracks impassable and many camps muddy, but grasses, however gloriously green, are as high as a house, hiding much of everything from sight. Game is dispersed far and wide along rivers, lakes and water holes. Wildlife spotting is more difficult. As the dry season wears on, the vegetation and water levels decrease and animals congregate around what remains. It makes locating them easier. So, when exactly is it the best time to go? Outside of the magical December through March period in the north, I suggest aiming for early or late dry season travel (June/early July or September/October). This way too you avoid some of the worst crowds of human animals and higher prices.

A word about temperature. The north of Tanzania has a more moderate climate than the south due to its higher elevation. Visitors might be surprised by the chilly mists of dry season evenings and early mornings in the north. However, overcast skies usually clear and days in the Serengeti can average a perfect sunny 20 to 24 degrees C. The exception is the NCA's Crater Highlands where seasonal fog can linger all day and where the nights are cold enough for warm clothing. The Indian Ocean coast, Dar es Salaam and the Zanzibar archipelago have a tropical climate. Sea breezes, especially on Zanzibar, bring blessed relief. The coolest months in the south are June through October; the hottest and most humid are December through March.

A park by park summary:

The North

Tarangire National Park
Tarangire is accessible all year, but the best time is between August and November. There are permanent wildlife residents, but many animals migrate out of Tarangire beginning in March. They begin returning in June and to the water in the Tarangire River when the surrounding areas dry out.

Lake Manyara
Larger mammals proliferate June through October. November through June is a good time for bird watching.

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area
The NCA is magnificent during and after the "short rains", although getting to Nasera Rock, OlKarien Gorge, Natron, and even Ndutu - may be problematical. Nasera and Ndutu are at their very best November through March when the wildebeest migration comes through.

The Serengeti
The migration follows the rain. Its timing therefore varies from year to year, but typically some 1,000,000 wildebeest and 250,000 zebra cover the southern plains of the Serengeti on its border with the NCA December through March. This is also foaling season for both species. Zebra births tend to peak in January and wildebeest in February, when the latter, unlike zebra, have their young all in the space of a few weeks. Unlike zebras too, female wildebeest have poor maternal instincts, and their babies, lost and abandoned among their swollen ranks, fall easily to the predators which stalk the migration.

In April, the migration chases the rain and greener pastures into the Central Serengeti. In May it is in the Western Serengeti. During June and July, the animals will cross the Grumeti River and out of the Serengeti into the Grumeti game controlled area. A smaller herd may break away and head into the Northern Serengeti. By the end of July, the migration is spread across the Northern Serengeti and the Ikorongo game controlled area just outside its borders. The herds then cross the Mara River into Kenya where they remain until December when they head back into Tanzania in a repeat of the cycle.

Depending upon the month of your visit, you can camp or game drive through the part of the Serengeti where the migration happens to be, with the exception perhaps of August when the animals may have already passed into Kenya. The migration may be at its most exciting when it is in the southern Serengeti in the early months of the year, but sighting the long columns of wildebeest on the move elsewhere in the park is an unforgettable experience too. Even if you miss the sight of the great herds altogether, you will not leave the Serengeti disappointed. That's impossible where there is so much nature on show.

Arusha National Park
The rainy seasons make travel into and around the park more difficult but not impossible with a four wheel drive vehicle. It is not recommended to climb Mount Meru during the "long rains". The best views of Mount Kilimanjaro are December through February.

The South

Mikumi National Park
Mikumi is accessible all year round. However, during both rainy periods many park tracks are impassable. The dry season of June through October is best for visiting, especially when combined with travel to the Selous.

The Selous
If you are arriving by road, then a visit June through October is best. December through February, when trees and flowers are in bloom, is also a beautiful time in the reserve. During the "long rains" most of the accommodations are closed.

Ruaha National Park
June through October is best for cat and large mammal sightings. The wet season is great for greenery and bird watching.

Katavi National Park
The dry season is June through October, but in Katavi's case, there is a narrow window within the dry that is best - not too soon after the "long rains" have passed so that the tracks are passable, but not too late into the hot weather either, otherwise the wildlife has moved away from the floodplain in search of water.